All The Candle FAQs

As a candle business, we have EXTENSIVE knowledge of candles….how they’re made, what they’re made with, how and why they act the way they do, tips and tricks for how to get the most from the candle and just general candle history. In the case of candles, you only know what you know. And until someone shares all the knowledge, you’ll never know what you don’t know. And as a sustainable design studio, we care deeply about the products we create for the home; even as small as a candle. When most brands and businesses won’t consider the toxins released within your home, we will.

Let’s get into it:

Are ALL candles toxic?

Nope. But not all candles are made equally. Candles can be made from a myriad of wax types…some of those toxic.

Candles are most frequently made using paraffin wax. Paraffin wax is a a byproduct of the petroleum industry. Burning paraffin wax releases some emissions, including volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Some studies suggest that paraffin candles can release chemicals like toluene, benzene, and formaldehyde (all known carcinogens) which are linked to respiratory irritation and other health issues. 

Candles can also be made from soy, coconut, apricot, palm and beeswax, and when these organic waxes are used, they are considered to be non-toxic.

Wax is not the only element of your candle that carries toxins. These can also be found in your wicks, dyes and fragrance oils. Be aware of what’s in your candles.

Should I be buying candles made with essential oils?

Nope. You may have thought you were making a smart choice with essential oils because they’re natural, but a natural product is not necessarily safe. Essential oils are not suitable for use in wax candles: both in terms of safety and olfactory performance. Some essential oils can release substances known as CMR (Carcinogenic, Mutagenic or Reprotoxic) when heated to a high temperature, as is the case in a candle, rendering it toxic. Moreover, essential oils have a low flashpoint meaning they lose their scent quickly when exposed to heat. Heat can also alter the chemical composition of some oils, transforming into into a rancid fragrance. Essential oils don't always mix well with waxes like soy or beeswax, leading to uneven fragrance distribution or even candles that smell almost nothing while lit. It can also affect the texture and burn of the candle, compromising its effectiveness and aesthetic appeal.. Lastly, essential oils are expensive, meaning you could pay significantly more for a candle that doesn’t smell like much, burns poorly and could still be toxic in the end.

How come my candle smells one way when I buy it and then differently when I burn it?

It’s supposed to. This is a complicated question to answer, but if you’re interested, keep reading. There are about 5,000 scents known to a perfumers nose and of those 5,000 scents, they each fall into 1 of 9 core fragrance families with 4 broader families known as olfactory groups. Now, how those scents react with each other is mapped out in ‘notes’. There is a known hierarchy of ‘notes’ that you’ve probably heard or read, described as “middle notes, top notes, and base notes”. This hierarchy is why your candle smells differently when it’s cold and unlit (known as a cold throw) versus when it’s lit and melted (known as a hot throw). This hierarchy is not up for debate and is responsible for the changes you experience. For instance, citrus is 1 of the 9 core fragrance families and citrus falls at the top of the fragrance pyramid because it’s the most volatile (meaning it is the first scent that begins to evaporate). Now it’s important to recognize that it doesn’t mean all citrus evaporates from your entire candle the moment you light it: it means when the cold hard wax begins to melt, the fragrance is released from the wax pores, and citrus is the first fragrance family to dissipate. If you purchases a candle with mandarin and bergamot it will therefore smell strongly of mandarin in it’s cold throw and more of bergamot in it’s hot throw. It’s science and we can’t change it.

What are top notes, middle notes, & base notes?

As mentioned above, these notes make up the fragrance pyramid. Top notes are the initial impression the fragrance oil makes when you first smell a candle or remove the lid. It is the most volatile, meaning it will evaporate the quickest. The middle note is the heart of the fragrance. It can take 10 to 20 minutes for the middle notes to fully develop. When you are burning a candle, the middle notes are the most prominent. Base notes are what give a candle lasting qualities. It is the scent that lingers even after the candle is extinguished. A perfect combination of these three notes makes a fragrance.

What’s the best way extinguish my candle?

There are many ways to extinguish a candle and I’ll rank them worst to best (and why) below:

• Using your lid: A candle flame is essentially a continuous combustion reaction between oxygen and hydrocarbons (wax) to form water vapor, carbon dioxide, and heat. When you remove oxygen from the equation by putting a lid on the candle jar, the reaction stops and the flame extinguishes.The benefit of doing this is that it produces less smoke than if you blew out the candle. It also prevents smoke from circulating into the room and mixing in with the nice fragrance you've got permeating your space. As long as the candle lid itself isn't made of a flammable or heat-sensitive material, it doesn't pose a safety risk.

  • BUT not all candle lids are meant to be used that way. Some candle lids are purely decorative, made from wood or plastic, or contain rubber seals that can melt or deform when exposed to heat. Also, the lid traps smoke and soot within the jar when the flame goes out. While it's great that it stops smoke from escaping into the rest of the room, the downside is that it leaves black, sooty residue on the underside of the lid and on the insides of the container. Third, in addition to making your candle jar turn black, the trapped soot can also settle into the wax. If you enjoy the pristine look of clean, white-colored soy wax, you're not going to like it when you open up the lid again and the top of your wax looks dirty and sooty. Further, trapping smoke under the lid can gradually alter the original fragrance of your scented candle. If you do it several times, you may start to notice that your candles may start to smell smoky. And last, your lid might get stuck. If there's a lot of empty space in the container, the flame will continue to burn for a some time until it uses up all of the oxygen inside. When the oxygen gets used up, it can create a vacuum seal that suctions the lid tightly to the candle jar, making it difficult to open again.

• Blowing it out: When you blow out a candle, you risk the possibility of blowing wax everywhere. Blowing out your candle out can also cause issues with your wax like tunneling (this will come up again!) and unevenness. Plus, you're allowing the candle wick to emit a lot of smoke. This can reduce the effect of both the cold throw of your candle, as well as the residual warm throw that may be left in the room.

• Using your fingers: come on now. That’s just a party trick and not particularly safe.

• Using a candle snuffer: Using a candle snuffer is one of the two recommended ways to extinguish your candle. A snuffer has a long handle with a bell shape on one end. To put out your candle, hold the snuffer over your candle and lower the bell end onto the lit flame. Once your snuffer fully envelopes the flame, hold it there for a moment until the flame fully goes out. Make sure your snuffer does not go into the melted wax. When your candle is fully out, remove the snuffer.

• Dipping your wick: A wick dipper is our top recommended way to put out your candle and preserve the quality of your candle wax and fragrance. Wick dippers usually have a long handle with a hook on one end. To extinguish the candle, use the wick dipper to quickly dip the wick into the melted wax and then lift it back out. This will instantly put out your candle with very little smoke. BUT I lose my wick dipper frequently and end up using a butter knife frequently.

a wick dipper made from a variety of metal types are photographed together

There’s often a lot of wax left in my candle. Why?

It’s you. You’re the problem. Your candle should be left to burn evenly, on a flat surface and away from moving air. You need to allow the entire surface of your candle to melt to the edges of the container before extinguishing it. The rule of thumb is 1 hour for every inch in diameter. But just use your eyes. If the hot, melted wax isn’t touching the sides of your container, it’s not ready to be blown out. It’s not ready, because you’ve created a “memory ring”. The next time you light your candle, the hot melted wax will burn down into the space you created the last time you lit your candle. You’ve created a tunnel. When there is cold hard wax left around the edges of your candle, it is known as tunneling.

Can I fix my candle if it’s tunneled?

Possibly. The best way to do this to wrap a piece of aluminum foil around the neck of your candle leaving an opening in the top. This will trap in heat and allow for increased temperature to heat and melt the cold wax attached to the container walls. Allow your candle to burn for 2+ hours before checking on its progress.

Can I scrape out the left-over wax from all my candles and put them together in one candle?

Nope. Candles burn equal parts wax, wick, fragrance and oxygen. If you’ve burned through your wick meant for a specific sized candle and then added more wax without adding more wick, there won’t be enough wick to melt your candle. The excess wax will drown out your wick. Also, unless you know the wax types, you’d be mixing wax types which will not burn properly AND could be toxic.

Lids are important, right?

Actually, they’re not. They do serve a purpose by keeping dust off the surface of your candle. Candles also often come with dust covers so there would be no need for a lid. It’s additionally widely accepted that lids are important because they “trap the fragrance inside”. Unfortunately, your candle fragrance does not hang out in the empty space between the cold wax and your lid. Fragrance oils are trapped inside the pores of your wax and for the most part, don’t escape unless the pores have been opened up through heat, or your candle being lit and melted. Lids can serve a purpose to look pleasing, and store nicely, but are not important.

Should I store my candles in the freezer? Does it really help the candle keep?

I’ve heard this many times AND you can read this advice in some reputable magazines. Honestly, this is just an old wives tale. It does not make your wax melt more slowly and it does not help the scent last.

Best practices are to store your candles in a place with a cool, even temperature (below 80 °F). Otherwise, any excess heat may cause the candle wax to soften and cause the fragrance to not last as long. But never store candles in the freezer — this may damage the candle wick and cause the wax to crack or split. Candles are best kept as dry as possible. Try to avoid areas with water, moisture, humidity, and condensation. For example, bathrooms and kitchens typically have higher levels of humidity than other rooms in the house, so it’s best to steer clear of storing candles in those rooms. 

Why are there different sized candles?

Candles are made in different sizes for different purposes AND for the different types of candle consumers out there. Tealights, tapers, votives, tin candles, glass candles, single and double wicked candles, candles that come with 3+ wicks…these all serve their own purpose. We previously mentioned tunneling and how by not allowing your candle to melt to the edges of it’s container, you decrease the life of your candle. For those that do not have the type of lifestyle that allow for candles to be lit for long periods of time, that’s what smaller candles are created for. In ratio, there is no more fragrance in a tealight than there is in a large container candle. But the container candle will need to be lit for hours at a time, whereas a tealight can be lit in a smaller time increments. In short, if it takes you 6 months to burn a candle, perhaps a smaller candle is for you because you burn your candle for less increments at a time, where as if you were someone who enjoys having candles lit for4+ hours throughout the day would benefit from a larger candle. Remember that candles burn 1 hr for every inch in diameter, so if you’re excited about a big 4 wick candle but can’t commit to 6 hours of burning, that candle is not for you. If you like candles lit just for dinner, it should be unscented and therefore a taper is best for you. If you like having candles lit during a bath, then tealights are best for you. If you like to travel with candles, then a tin is best for you.

an infograph depicts images of varying candle sizes, their names, and their respective measurements

What’s a wick trimmer and does it really work?

A wick trimmer is a tool specifically designed to trim candle wicks, ensuring a clean, even burn and reducing soot and smoke. Wick trimmers typically have a curved blade or scissor-like mechanism that allows you to clip the wick to the desired length. They help maintain the ideal wick length (typically around 1/4 inch) for optimal candle performance. Trimming the wick prevents a "mushrooming" or "charred" wick, which can lead to soot, smoke, and uneven burning. Properly trimmed wicks ensure the candle burns evenly and lasts longer. Trimming the wick helps control the flame size and reduces the risk of a fire hazard. 

a matte black wick trimmer is photographed in a linen backdrop

Why are some candles in a container and some have no container?

There’s no real reason: it is simply the preference of the chandler (or candlemaker). At House of Thayer, we work with scented candles that are made in containers. Other chandlers specialize in tapers, votives or shaped candle that require molds. These candles are uncontrolled in their burns and so it will require extra care and attention for the consumer. For instance, we’d recommend using a plate underneath your pillar candles to catch any drips or remnants. Candles not poured into containers are more difficult to control their burn times as they are free to move without the constriction of a container. However, a container will often make your candle burn longer. You might consider a votive holder if you decide to consume votives. Taper candles (if properly made) will not drip: instead, they will vaporize at the same speed that they melt, ensuring that there is nothing left in your taper holder aside from a small amount of wax and extinguished charred wick.

Comment below if you have a candle question that hasn’t been addressed!